Skip to content. Logout Register. Ooze Control: Extra Restart Distance. Ooze Control: Extra Restart Distance Wed Feb 14, pm Hey guys, I use extra restart distance negative on the start of perimeters after a retraction to help prevent small blobs at the beginning of a print loop. This works great for your typical travel movements, however sometimes as a part gets taller, the details become smaller or you get to a cross section with a lot of small cross sectional areas so retractions become very frequent.
I know it's a long shot, but is there a way in S3D to say "If there are a bunch of quick retractions, to ignore the extra restart distance and only use the extra restart distance on longer travel moves? If not, it seems like a good feature. If the travel movement between two printed areas is only 1mm apart, ignore extra restart distance and then maybe set the maximum travel distance that will give you the maximum extra restart distance that you set. Distances in between could be linearly interpolated.
Anyway, thanks in advance! Maybe the minimum distance for retraction? See if something there might help to control when retractions take place. Ooze Control behaviour Ex: wipe distance is 5mm and minimal travel before retraction: 6mm.
Blobs and Zits
Retract with wipe movement is ON. Will a retraction happen during the wipe movement even though the wipe movement is shorter than the minimal travel distance? Hope the example makes sense. Normally before traveling, the nozzle wipes so if I retract during wiping, would the minimum travel distance do anything in this example?
Re: Ooze Control: Extra Restart Distance Mon Feb 19, am I'm posting in this both to flag it for myself in case there IS a way to do this I just got a dual extruderand also to give a helpful suggestion. I'd think you should try setting up multiple processes for the area that's doing less printing. Change the process settings for just that height - it would even work if it's just a section in the middle of the print with lots of retraction.
Save the process anytime this comes up for quick access, then use the wizard to split the model - either as it goes up to that point, or just in the areas you need it. Someone that gave me a bunch of tips 2 weeks ago on dual extruders told me that if you want the really beautiful pieces, you really have to slow the speed down and do the extra steps in preparation you find as a hassle.
Blobs and Zits
I'd think this is an instance and I noticed this as a huge issue trying to print the 2 color frog at a small size that basically made all the colors dots! Board index All times are UTC.Maybe you want to clean the hotend as it looks like a partial clog to me.
Make sure no leftovers from e. I recommend you start with a series of cold pulls. I have found that Cura 2. X has never done as smooth a job on the Z scar as the X versions did. However, I was using a UM2 Ext with the X versions and a UM3 Ext with the 2.
X versions. So your results may vary. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Ultimaker. SandervG posted a topic in Official newsMarch Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts.
Then I suggest you compare the temperature and speed settings of Cura and Slic3r. I created new stl file, now tube has a wall of 0. This way we get 2 lines instead of 1 and I also added draft shield which has only one line.
How to eliminate the gap? That is the Z scar at layer change. Play with the "Coasting" under the Experimental Menu.
Never did much for me, but worth a try. I adjusted the "Outer Wall Wipe Distance" to 0 and the result looks better. Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account?
Sign In Now.This is typically due to plastic oozing out of the nozzle while the extruder is moving to a new location. Thankfully, there are several settings within Simplify3D that can help with this issue. The most common setting that is used to combat excessive stringing is something that is known as retraction.
If retraction is enabled, when the extruder is done printing one section of your model, the filament will be pulled backwards into the nozzle to act as a countermeasure against oozing. When it is time to begin printing again, the filament will be pushed back into the nozzle so that plastic once again begins extruding from the tip.
Ensure that the retraction option is enabled for each of your extruders. In the sections below, we will discuss the important retraction settings as well as several other settings that can be used to combat stringing, such as the extruder temperature settings.
The most important retraction setting is the retraction distance. This determines how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle.
In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. Most direct-drive extruders only require a retraction distance of 0. If you encounter stringing with your prints, try increasing the retraction distance by 1mm and test again to see if the performance improves. The next retraction setting that you should check is the retraction speed. This determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If you retract too slowly, the plastic will slowly ooze down through the nozzle and may start leaking before the extruder is done moving to its new destination.
If you retract too quickly, the filament may separate from the hot plastic inside the nozzle, or the quick movement of the drive gear may even grind away pieces of your filament. Thankfully, Simplify3D has already provided many pre-configured profiles that can give you a starting point for what retraction speed works best, but the ideal value can vary depending on the material that you are using, so you may want to experiment to see if different speeds decrease the amount of stringing that you see.
Once you have checked your retraction settings, the next most common cause for excessive stringing is the extruder temperature. If the temperature is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle will become less viscous and will leak out of the nozzle much more easily. However, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will still be somewhat solid and will have difficulty extruding from the nozzle.
If you feel you have the correct retraction settings, but you are still encountering these issues, try decreasing your extruder temperature by degrees.
Stringing or Oozing
This can have a significant impact on the final print quality. Select your extruder from the list on the left, and then double-click on the temperature setpoint you wish to edit. As we discussed above, stringing occurs when the extruder is moving between two different locations, and during that move, plastic starts to ooze out of the nozzle.
The length of this movement can have a large impact on how much oozing takes place. Short moves may be quick enough that the plastic does not have time to ooze out of the nozzle. However, long movements are much more likely to create strings. Thankfully, Simplify3D includes an extremely useful feature that can help minimize the length of these movements.
The software is smart enough that it can automatically adjust the travel path to make sure that nozzle has a very short distance to travel over an open space. In fact, in many cases, the software may be able to find a travel path that avoids crossing an open space all together! This means that there is no possibility to create a string, because the nozzle will always be on top of the solid plastic and will never travel outside the part. Finally, you may also find that increasing the movement speed of your machine can also reduce the amount of time that the extruder can ooze when moving between parts.
You can verify what movement speeds your machine is using by clicking on the Speeds tab of your process settings. If your machine can handle moving at higher speeds, you may find that increasing this settings can also reduce stringing between parts. Stringing or Oozing.
For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:. The RepRap Wiki suggests that there could be made so much more from this. I would love to swipe the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.
The code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 and then commented on can be explained a little more:. G28 ;Home This homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume. G1 Z Basically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print.
An alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit.
It then moves in positive Y direction to the back and raises the platform this is the swipe actionthen retracts and starts to move to the print start. Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged. You can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers.
Try and experiment what works best for you.Skip to content. Logout Register. Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by KeyboardWarrior on Wed Apr 22, pm, edited 1 time in total. Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Thu Feb 05, am This is really great information - why can't it be placed in the help menu of the software itself???
Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Sat Feb 07, am I definitely want to retain this info - thanks for spelling it out, because I keep getting the terms mixed up! Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Mon Jul 13, am Thank you so much KeyboardWarrior for taking the time to do all these tutorial on what the different tabs do, i would be totally lost without this help, this has been a godsend to me, Thank you.
In another program I had used before, there was an option called retract before move. I can not find that option in Simplify 3D and was wondering if someone could tell me what the equivalent in this program is or where I could find the option?
Many thanks. Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Thu Feb 16, pm You just have to enable the retraction checkbox and then set the retraction distance you want. Then it will retract before making any moves. Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Sun Apr 02, am Info like this should be included int the floating tooltip in the program itself. Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Sat Jun 10, pm KeyboardWarrior wrote: Retraction Distance: How much filament will be retracted when the software does a retract.
For standard Direct Drive, usually. For Bowden extruders, 5 to 8.3D Printing 101: What Is a Wipe Wall or Ooze Shield?
Re: Tip of the Day Extruder tab, a technical analysis Sat Sep 02, pm Please note the T0 and T1 extruder designation is dependent upon the manufacturer.
Some manufacturers like re3D will designate the Left extruder as T0. The general convention is your first tool will be T0, if you have multiple extruders general convention also is that T0 will be the right extruder and T1 will be the left extruder.
This includes skirts, rafts, supports, perimeter and infill extrudes. The default values in the software are. If you notice that your Top solid layers are not as filled-in as you'd like them to be, I would recommend increasing the of top solid layers, and if you still think there's an issue then this is the setting I'd recommend changing.
Board index All times are UTC.When you have a 3D model and are ready to print, you need a program that prepares your file for your 3D printer. A slicing program takes an STL or OBJ file and creates G-code, the code that instructs your 3D printer where to move the print head to, how fast to move it, and what path to follow. In Cura, you will find all the settings on the side panel. They are divided into different sections for navigability. If you do not see all the setting categories, you can go to the Preferences: Settings menu and enable or disable a setting.
You can click on each setting category below to see more information. In general, a wall thickness of 2 or 3 times the line width is sufficient. A higher value will create a sturdier model and decreases the chance of leaks, while a lower value can significantly decrease the print time and filament costs. Infill —Settings related to the inside of the print. Infill density defines the amount of plastic used on the inside of the print.
This determines the distance between each infill line, which has the same effect as changing the fill density. Material —Settings related to Material.
Retraction is one property that can be set. You have to be careful with flexible materials or models that require a lot of retractions though, as that might lead to grinding of the filament.
Speed —Speeds at which the print head moves while printing. Based on this setting, Cura will also calculate how fast the filament must be extruded.
A higher print speed will lead to a shorter print time. But keep in mind that increasing the print speed means that you might have to increase the temperature as well, to ensure the plastic is properly melted.
A lower speed increases the reliability of closure of the top layers, especially on large area prints. Support speed : The speed at which support structures are printed. The quality of the support is usually not that important, so a higher value can often be used here.
Travel —How the print head behaves while traveling. Cooling —Settings that define how the plastic is cooled. You can enable or disable the print head fans during printing.
The print head fans will make sure that the material is properly cooled before the next layer is placed on top of it. Support —Options for support structures. Some models have overhanging parts, which means that parts of the model float mid-air when you would print the model. In this case, you must use a support structure under the model to prevent the plastic from falling down.
This can be achieved by enabling support. Platform adhesion— Options for how your model relates to the build plate.
Options include Brim, Raft, and Skirt. Special modes —Features that influence printing.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.
Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. As seen in the picture the infill goes up to the inner wall. The "infill wipe" goes the distance inside of the wall set rather large in the example. I think the use of this infill wipe feature should be: let the infill go towards the wall, minus the infill wipe distance.
This way the end of the infill wipe distance ends up at the spot where the infill ends up in the current setup. Only then will this feature have a function :. It is meant to enhance adhesion between infill and wall. This way they overlap a bit and therefore adhere better to each other, making the object stronger. If we'd implement infill wipe as you describe it, you'd get neater retractions not an issue in infill and less material usage a valid concern but at the cost of lesser adhesion between wall and infill and therefore lesser strength.
I would think that "infill overlap" does the adhering to walls. And that this feature was to get rid of blobs forming where infill decelerates. We sort of have two features with the same goal there: One with extrusion infill overlap and one without infill wipe. Perhaps one of them should be re-purposed to fill the need of what you describe. I can't imagine it does a lot of good though, but perhaps it could improve the surface quality in case the wall is very thin. The Infill Wipe setting is correct in what it does.
If you are sure you would like your functionality as a new feature, please make a new issue at github. Skip to content. Dismiss Join GitHub today GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.
Sign up. New issue. Jump to bottom. Labels Category: Engine. Copy link Quote reply. This comment has been minimized. Sign in to view. Ah, it was designed to serve a different function.